Sunday, 7 December 2008

Fashion Moment: Stiletto

Swathed in white satin and velvet, Catherine De Medici floated down the isle towards her husband - the future king of France - in 1533. Bejeweled in a rose bodice the French court was captivated by the Italian bride. Petite in frame, Catherine wanted to make an impression on her French counterparts, and therefore wore the first ever-documented stiletto.

Derived from the Latin word 'stilis' which translates as 'slender dagger', the stiletto is a spiked heel - which when worn, elongates the legs, elevates the bust and protrudes the derriere. The stiletto is the ultimate optical illusion in achieving a smaller foot. It has similar ideology to the old Chinese practice known as the lotus foot. This is where the foot is bound causing severe deformities but is perceived to be beautiful, as the foot is only 4 to 6 inches long. This extreme example projects societies belief that small is desirable.

Erotica and fetishism are part of the stiletto's appeal. It goes hand in hand with dominance and submission. the shoe flirts with feminism and emulates power, confidence and authority. With masochism and sadism as the stilettos parents; the shoe becomes a material manifestation of psychological power.

After fading into obscurity between the ages, the modern stiletto made a re-appearance in the 1950s. The post war years saw a collaboration between 'it' designer Christian Dior and Roger Vivier who together re-defined the future of the heel. Decorated in elaborate pearls and beads, or constructed in fine silk, Vivier created the stiletto revolution.

The 60s saw Hugh Hefner make the shoe a staple in his bunny's wardrobe , and used a standardized 4 inch heel as regular attire in his infamous Playboy magazine. The stiletto was henceforth adopted by working girls and featured in the punk-rock rebellion.

More recently the stiletto has been taken to new heights, literally. In 1993 Naomi Campbell, wearing a tartan dress and raspberry feather boa, famously fell in mock-croc shoe boots with a 10 inch heel. Then for Prada's S/S 09 collection, towering snakeskin stilettos sent terrified models tumbling down the runway. They may not be practical, but they are terrific. 
Roger Vivier for Dior, Pink stiletto

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